We drove to the southwest coast of Ireland. We passed along motorways, national roads, local roads, past sheep, castles, towns small and large, and stopped where we felt inspired. We considered dinner in Cork, but after driving a few loops through the small city and feeling a bit underwhelmed, we opted to keep going to reach Bantry before nightfall. Gavin remembered staying in Bantry when he was 16 a family vacation and enjoying it. It is also a great launching place for exploring the southwest coast of Ireland, famed for its rugged coastal scenery.
We arrived in Bantry during a light drizzle under gloomy evening skies as a flock of crows flew overhead and alighted on barren trees in the local graveyard, cawing loudly. The tide was out in Bantry Bay and boats sat on the mud, stranded till the tide returned. Shrugging off our spooky welcome, we checked into a penthouse (ah yeah!) at the well appointed Maritime Hotel, then went out to explore the few streets in the town. Our goal was to find pints and live music and we found both right away.
Our first stop was a small bar on the main drag in Bantry. A young man was playing both Irish and American classics on his guitar and the Guinness was flowing. We smiled at each other across our pints of Guiness, then struck up conversation with a local, Cornelius Kelly, who had recently returned to his home town after years abroad. After getting our story, he went over and chatted with the musician and next thing we new the musician dedicated a song to us, Heyday, by Glen Hansard. The musician was a really talented guitar picker and a wonderful live singer. The gesture was so sweet and touching. The night was off to a great start. Cornelius told us that we really needed to go hear a woman playing music at a bar down the street (the Mariner) after we left this bar. He told us that she had an amazing voice and was not to be missed. Sold! We finished our drinks and headed to the Mariner to grab dinner, then check out the music.
Our first stop was a small bar on the main drag in Bantry. A young man was playing both Irish and American classics on his guitar and the Guinness was flowing. We smiled at each other across our pints of Guiness, then struck up conversation with a local, Cornelius Kelly, who had recently returned to his home town after years abroad. After getting our story, he went over and chatted with the musician and next thing we new the musician dedicated a song to us, Heyday, by Glen Hansard. The musician was a really talented guitar picker and a wonderful live singer. The gesture was so sweet and touching. The night was off to a great start. Cornelius told us that we really needed to go hear a woman playing music at a bar down the street (the Mariner) after we left this bar. He told us that she had an amazing voice and was not to be missed. Sold! We finished our drinks and headed to the Mariner to grab dinner, then check out the music.
After stopping at the restaurant downstairs for a pizza, we walked up the stairs to the bar. To our surprise, we opened the door to find that two musicians on the stage, Bean and Irene, and no one else in the bar but us and the bartenders. Private concert?! It started out that way. Bean and Irene played great folk songs, talking with us as between acts. They played one song, dedicated to us, that absolutely blew us away, Wedding Song, by Anais Mitchell. Irene played the song with such soulful passion, for just the two of us. It was a really amazing moment. Gavin recorded the song and you can here Bean and Irene's live version here.
Suddenly, the door opened and the bar owner, Steve, his 75 year old father, John, and a few of their friends entered the bar. The party really got going. Steve and John were out on a major bender to commemorate the passing of John's wife (Steve's mother) a year ago. When they came in they introduced themselves to us and, hearing our story, told us we were going to have a great night, would not pay for any drinks, and that we should "let loose". We were brought more whiskey than we could drink and danced, danced, danced. Then John got up on stage and sang a traditional Irish song, quite well. The door to audience participation was thrown open and, as Carmen had mentioned to Bean that Gavin plays a bit of guitar, Gavin was seriously pressured to get up on stage and perform something. This is totally outside of Gavin's comfort zone, but people kept coming over and telling Gavin that it didn't matter if he was good or not, that he should just let loose and go for it. It was refreshing for Gavin to be in a situation where being normal was to get up on stage, and he decided to fit in. Carmen suggested he play, "Angel of Montgomery" by John Prine, which he has often played with Caitlin and Doug. Gavin was ridiculously nervous getting up there, but Bean backed him up on the base guitar and Carmen made his night by joining him on stage part way through to help sing the chorus. It was a great victory and Gavin and Carmen felt like the stars of the evening with all the compliments they received from their performance, and still the whiskey flowed. More locals got on stage and lots of collaborative jam sessions ensued. Gavin sort of led a rousing version of "Amazing Grace" in tribute to John's wife. John came over and told Gavin and Carmen about his 4 sons who have all done very well for themselves and offered us a jobs if needed. We were treated like family and friends and were made royally welcome. At the end of the night Steve told us that they had been sad coming in there and that we had really helped fill in the gaps and make the night one of celebration. Bean and Irene ended the evening dedicating another song to us, Galileo (Someone Like You), which was just lovely. What a night! We marveled that in both Scotland and Ireland we were welcomed as family to party like best friends.
Suddenly, the door opened and the bar owner, Steve, his 75 year old father, John, and a few of their friends entered the bar. The party really got going. Steve and John were out on a major bender to commemorate the passing of John's wife (Steve's mother) a year ago. When they came in they introduced themselves to us and, hearing our story, told us we were going to have a great night, would not pay for any drinks, and that we should "let loose". We were brought more whiskey than we could drink and danced, danced, danced. Then John got up on stage and sang a traditional Irish song, quite well. The door to audience participation was thrown open and, as Carmen had mentioned to Bean that Gavin plays a bit of guitar, Gavin was seriously pressured to get up on stage and perform something. This is totally outside of Gavin's comfort zone, but people kept coming over and telling Gavin that it didn't matter if he was good or not, that he should just let loose and go for it. It was refreshing for Gavin to be in a situation where being normal was to get up on stage, and he decided to fit in. Carmen suggested he play, "Angel of Montgomery" by John Prine, which he has often played with Caitlin and Doug. Gavin was ridiculously nervous getting up there, but Bean backed him up on the base guitar and Carmen made his night by joining him on stage part way through to help sing the chorus. It was a great victory and Gavin and Carmen felt like the stars of the evening with all the compliments they received from their performance, and still the whiskey flowed. More locals got on stage and lots of collaborative jam sessions ensued. Gavin sort of led a rousing version of "Amazing Grace" in tribute to John's wife. John came over and told Gavin and Carmen about his 4 sons who have all done very well for themselves and offered us a jobs if needed. We were treated like family and friends and were made royally welcome. At the end of the night Steve told us that they had been sad coming in there and that we had really helped fill in the gaps and make the night one of celebration. Bean and Irene ended the evening dedicating another song to us, Galileo (Someone Like You), which was just lovely. What a night! We marveled that in both Scotland and Ireland we were welcomed as family to party like best friends.
What a loverly night!
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